take your butter out to play
These simple and wonderful butter cookies are perfect. They are sweet, but not too sweet. They have a great crunch and are fantastic tucked into a dish of ice cream or gelato. They are even good with wine, though some may disagree with me there. Unfortunately, these are also delicious dipped into a jar of Nutella. Who needs a spoon?
This recipe comes from Carol Fields' The Italian Baker, a book I love so much the spine has been broken for many years now. The real name for them is Buranelli, butter cookies from Burano.
These cookies are very similar to some I ate in Venice, dipped in fresh & local strawberry wine. Unbelievably good.
1 stick + 2 teaspoons butter, at room temperature. salted, unsalted, whatever. I personally like these just a bit salty. It adds to their je ne sais quoi and more-ish (to borrow a phrase from Nigella) quality.
1 cup + 3 Tablespoons sugar
5 egg yolks
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
grated zest of 1 large or 2 small lemons
a teaspoon or so of fresh lemon juice
3 cups unbleached flour
1 teaspoon salt. If you have used salted butter, you may reduce the amount but, as I said, I like them a bit salty.
Cream the butter & sugar well, then beat in the yolks one at a time. Mix in the vanilla and lemon zest & juice. Whisk the salt into the flour and then add the flour mixture a bit at a time until all is well-blended. This is a stiff dough, though if you have trouble rolling it into snakes, you may tip it all back into your mixing bowl and add just a bit more lemon juice. But keep in mind it is a shortbread cookie, so it isn't meant to be moist.
Preheat your oven. This may take some perfecting on your part. The book says 375F. I bake them at 325F., partly due to the altitude here. Perhaps you should try 350F. for starters and see how that works for you. These brown rather quickly on the bottom of the cookie, before they brown at all on the top, so watch out for that. To correct for this, place your racks in the upper third and/or center of your oven. And don't let this warning put you off. These are hella-easy to make, and the kids can help.
Prepare 2 cookie sheets with butter or parchment liners and start rolling. Break off hunks of dough about the size of a small walnut and roll it into a ball. Then roll the ball between your hands to form a snake around 4 inches long. Arrange your snake on a cookie sheet so that it forms an inverted S. Then do that many more times until the dough is gone. You can place them pretty close to each other on the sheets, as they don't spread out very much during baking.
Bake them until pale blond and a bit puffed and crackly on top. This will take between 16 and 25 minutes. You want them to be a nice rich brown on the bottom of the cookie, so that they have a great crunch and a caramelized flavor on the bottom. Remove them to racks to cool.
These keep for quite a long time (undecorated), at room temperature in an airtight container. After they are cool you may decorate them, if you wish, with melted chocolate chips. I like to use the microwave, tempering the chocolate by removing the bowl when they are about 75-80% melted and then stirring until the chocolate is completely melted. Spoon the chocolate into a sandwich bag, snip a tiny hole in it, and drizzle. Or just use a spoon! I also mixed up a tiny bit of powdered sugar and water to make a thick paste and painted eyes on them with a toothpick. Have fun, and send me photos!








